Bambu Lab Black NylonG Glass Fiber Filament - 1.75mm (0.5kg)
Bambu Lab ABS is engineered for strength, durability, and heat resistance. It is compatible with most 3D printers and optimized for use with Bambu Lab X1 series and P1 series printers. This filament features RFID technology for seamless integration with the Bambu Lab AMS, ensuring automatic material recognition and optimal printing settings.
- Compatible with RFID Technology
- Durable, High-Temperature Material
- Nozzle Temp: 220 - 250 °C
- Bed Temp: 85 - 100 °C
- Enclosure Recommended for Best Results
| Price: | $70.00 (with add-ons) |
|---|---|
| Availability: | In Stock |
| Order Now: | Ships Today Free U.S. Shipping |
Bambu Lab ABS
Bambu ABS is a reliable 3D printing filament known for its strength, durability, and high impact resistance. It also offers excellent heat and water resistance, making it perfect for projects that require stability at moderate temperatures and in humid or wet environments. Ideal for a variety of 3D printing applications.
Strong & Durable ABS Filament
Bambu Lab ABS is a top choice for makers needing tough, reliable prints. With superior mechanical properties, it outperforms standard PLA and PETG, making it perfect for functional parts and engineering projects.
- Excellent strength and durability
- Ensures long-lasting, reliable prints
- Ideal for functional parts, prototypes, and engineering components
Water-Resistant Performance
Bambu Lab ABS offers excellent water resistance, making it a great choice for prints exposed to moisture or wet environments. Enjoy added durability and longevity for your projects.
- Suitable for use in wet or humid environments
- Enhances durability and lifespan of printed parts
- Ideal for outdoor or moisture-prone applications
Tough & Impact Resistant
Bambu Lab ABS delivers outstanding toughness and can withstand repeated impacts, collisions, and drops. It maintains impressive impact resistance even in low-temperature conditions.
- Exceptional toughness for demanding applications
- Withstands impacts, collisions, and falls
- Maintains strength and durability at low temperatures
| Recommended Print Settings | |
|---|---|
| Drying Settings (Blast Drying Oven) | 80 °C, 8 hours |
| Printing and Storage Humidity | < 20% RH (sealed with desiccant) |
| Nozzle Temperature | 240 – 270 °C |
| Bed Temperature (with glue) | 80 – 100 °C |
| Printing Speed | < 300 mm/s |
| Physical Properties | |
| Density | 1.05 g/cm³ |
| Vicat Softening Temperature | 94 °C |
| Heat Deflection Temperature | 87 °C |
| Melting Temperature | 200 °C |
| Melt Index | 34.2 ± 3.8 g/10 min |
| Mechanical Properties | |
| Tensile Strength | 33 ± 3 MPa |
| Breaking Elongation Rate | 10.5 ± 1.0% |
| Bending Modulus | 1880 ± 110 MPa |
| Bending Strength | 62 ± 4 MPa |
| Impact Strength | 39 ± 3.6 kJ/m² |
Questions
The data sheet says the coefficient of thermal expansion is “ 0,1 10⁻⁴ / K”. If I assume the European convention for comma rather than decimal point I would read this as 0.1 x 10⁻⁴. Normally CTE is expressed in units of 10⁻⁶ meters/meter. Is the CTE of this material really half that of aluminum and 1/10 of that of most nylons, 10 x 10⁻⁶? As a liquid, it would have the CTE of regular nylon but as it cools, the glass puts the nylon into severe strain, probably why it is difficult to print. Clearly a bed temperature and heated environment will be critical, and cooling should be gradual and uniform. But really the amazing fact is that this CTE is less than 1/2 that of Aluminum, 23.6x10⁻⁶ and nearly that of Titanium, 9.7x10⁻⁶! The plot of CTE over temperature is a necessary component of the spec sheet. Does water absorption cause the printed parts to crack? Thanks!
For everyone talking this product down…Try HARDER!!!! It’s by far my favorite material and the finish is insane ONCE you figure it out lol..you will see a nice glitter finish and 0 layer lines…I went through rolls with of this stuff until I got it…TRY HARDER…I promise it’ll be worth it in the end…I print on a modded ender 3 with or w/o an enclosure sometimes, I’ve successfully printed “big” entire build volume models …trust me I was pissed AF for a long time until I figured it out lol…
Using a stock Ender 3 Pro. What additional upgrades would be necessary to maximize print quality for NylonG?
how well can the white nylonG transmit light? As in, Will it allow me to illuminate the print with a light source on the inside? trying to avoid clear PETG and need a stiffer polymer, so despite the vulnerability to UV light, uncoated, this material was suggested to me
Does this filament need an enclosure to print properly?
The technical data sheet states a "linear mould shrinkage" of 0.3. 1) Does this mean 0.3%? 2) Does the Matter Control slicer software scale up my model by 0.3% in order to accommodate the shrinkage in the final print, or is this something I should account for manually? 3) Is there a recommended cooling / curing process for the NylonG material so that I know that after a certain amount of time, shrinkage is largely over?
Can you please explain what are the best practices to prevent white NylonG from getting yellowish after print?
I've bought a roll of this filament and so far every attempt to print a file with it has failed to adhesive to the build plate. I've tried garolite and retraction speed and distance whats the settings on that for ender3 v3 ke
does anyone know what the best support spacing is for top and bottom for z axis only?
Is there an approved annealing process for this filament? No matter how much magigoo i use chamber temp, i get minor warping (parts i'm printing take 24 hrs +). I would like to relieve the internal stresses to hopefully straighten my parts out.
Is this a pa6, 66, 12 or something different?
The data sheet says the tensile strength is 95 MPa using ISO 527. Other manufacturers publish 3 strength values: xy, yz, xz. as a 3D printed structure is non-isotropic. (Meaning the material strength properties are different in each direction). The weakest direction, I suppose, is the direction that tests layer adhesion. Can you give me a better idea of how the material was tested? Were printed test samples used or molded samples, etc...
Can a Ender 3 with Micro Swiss hotend and extruder print Nylon G with stock thermistor and heat canister?
We print straight out of our let it start dehydrating for about an hour or two at 75 c max setting I just set the time for 12 hours and after an hour or two we start our printers and we feed directly into our enclosed printers on garolite with magigoo pa and hardened nozzle all metal hotend and just let it print
First print we did was perfect at 260c bed at 75c. I’m using a carbon fiber print bed and magigoo PA adhesive. I am using an extremely modified Ender6 with a slice engineering mosquito magnum with a Bondtech DDX extruder. Seems to me the extruder is as important as any other settings as your Esteps must be perfect. My only dislike is the orange is not as bright as it shows in samples. Amazing filament.
How much does the spool weigh for .5kg/1.75 ?
You appear to no longer carry Dupont Zytel. How does this compare, especially with settings?
This filament have the same warping problem like Nylon X ??
I am trying to print apart using black NylonG. I have made 3 attempts so far and each time The part warps and one of the corners comes loose from the bed. With each attempt I make it further into the print but end up with the same result. I’m using a CR10s pro with no part cooling fan with printer in an enclosure and an internal temp of 35c inside enclosure. First attempt: Glass bed, @ 60c, nozzle 260c, NANO polymer adhesive from VisionMiner, printed with a brim and used recommended feeds recommended from MatterHackers. Second try: same as before but 80c on bed Third try: 90c bed temp, 25% feed rate on first layer, 50% second then 100% for remainder. I have used about 375g of material thus far. I am using 100% infill for this part which I’m share doesn’t help. Any recommendations?
I have never printed with nylon so, I am learning about it. Why do you need to dry it? Is it because it has a lot of moisture in it from the factory or do you have to do this every time?
Can the glass fibers fall out during printing or when you touch it like with Colorfabb XT-CF20, I'm really scared of breathing in or getting glass fiber splinters with this. The only hazard i see is a burn hazard on the safety data sheet.
Went through almost 2 spoils of nylon G now . I have a flashforge creator pro upgraded with all metal hot end and it still isn’t hot enough for good later adhesion . I printed at 40mm/s at 280c and had a decent print but layer adhesion just wasn’t there completely . At least for my Glock frame that is, it seems like you should really be printing this material at 280 plus to get the most out of this material , I even had it sit in the oven for 24 hours at 180c . It is somewhat strong but my PLA plus blows it out of the water as far as strength goes. Do you think I should print with an ender 3 to get better later adhesion since those can go to 300c ?
Is the 3kg weight the amount of material on the spool? What's the length?
Can this be printed safely in a standard office with standard ventilation?
I bought the printdry filament drying system, what would be the best temp to dry this at and for how long?
What is the percentage of glass fiber in the nylon?
I’d like to know this as well. I’ve purchased a reel, and if I had to guess based on other glass reinforced filaments I’ve tried, this stuff seems like around 10-15% at most. The filament is just too flexible for it to contain any more than that. In comparison, polymaker has a PA6 gf filament with 25% fiber content and it will barely bend at all without snapping.