Dyze Design Raspberry Gold MatterHackers Quantum PLA Filament - 1.75mm (0.75kg)
DyzEnd PRO Hotend is a high-performance lightweight hotend. Featuring a small form factor, and made entirely of metals to withstand high heat, equipped with high-temperature sensors, a tungsten carbide nozzle, and jam-free technology, this plug and play hotend will have you printing any kind of material from PLA to NylonG in seconds.
| Price: | $42.00 (with add-ons) |
|---|---|
| Availability: | In Stock |
| Order Now: | Ships Today Free U.S. Shipping |
Unleash the true potential of 3D printing with DYZE Design
Dyze Design a company located in Quebec, Canada, comprised of a team of Makers, Hobbyists, and Engineers with the vision to optimize the 3D printing market that have made a name for themselves in the 3D printing world. This highly innovative and knowledgable team has developed high-quality extruders, hotends, nozzles, and 3D printing components. Their extruders and hotends are known to be some of the smallest on the market, yet they contain rugged and robust materials and design components that will last, and every component undergoes rigorous testing.
DyzEnd PRO designed for professionals in mind
Dyze Design is serious about innovating and improving the 3D printing experience, see below all the features in the DyzEnd PRO
- Small Form Factor: The DyzEnd uses a low conductivity transition tube which allows the DyzEnd to have a compact design.
- All-Metal Melt Zone: Makes it an extremely reliable hotend when printing at high temperatures.
- High-Temperature Sensors: Enables high precise temperature reading of up to 500C°
- Ceramic Coated Transition Tube: Ceramic coating increases wear resistance for better flow and resistance.
- Cold Swappable Nozzles: Easily switch nozzles at room temperature with no leaks or burning hazards.
- Tungsten Carbide Nozzle: Built-in with ultimate durability and high thermal performance.
- All-Metal Steel heat block: Helps maintain high-temperature strength.
- Liquid Cooling Ready: Easily convert to a liquid-cooled setup with the customized Dyze cooling blocks.
- Bowden Ready: Compatible with 4mm PTFE Bowden tubes to guide filament into the hotend.
- Any Temperature Sensor: compatible with 300C° Thermistor, a 500C° Thermistor, a 500C° PT100, or a 500C° Type K thermocouple sensor. (This item is a 500C° thermistor)
Small yet packed with the best features you can find in any hotend on the market.
Tech Specs
- Weight: 52g
- Filament Diameter: 1.75mm
- Voltage: 12V, 24V
- Top Thread: M8 x 1.25mm
- Recommended Nozzle: DyzEnd M10 / MK10
Tungsten carbide nozzles have a high thermal performance, allowing faster print speeds without sacrificing quality
What's included in the box:
- DyzEnd Pro Hotend equipped with Tungsten Carbide Nozzle
- Fan with connector
- Heater with Connector
- Additional Sealing Washer
- Temperature Sensor with Connector
- Extension Cables
- 1000mm – Fan
- 1000mm – Heater
- 1000mm – Sensor
- Black Cable Tie
- Dyze Design Brand Stickers
FOR MORE DYZE DESIGN PRODUCTS WE CARRY AT MATTERHACKERS, CHECK OUT THE LINKS BELOW:
DyzXtruder GT
DyzeXtruder PRO
Looking to add liquid cooling to your Dyze Extruder / Hotend?
- Hotend: ENP Liquid Cooling Block for DyzEnd-X & DyzEnd PRO
- Extruder: ENP Liquid Cooling Block for DyzeXtruder-GT & DyzeXtruder PRO
Dyze Design Tungsten Carbide Nozzles
Questions
You mention and alignment coin, where can I find that?
How many meters of filament is in one roll?
the colors are beautiful. Can we buy in France? where can we find the stl of the mandala?
What does the empty spool weight?
What is the density of this material?
What are the material properties for this filament? Can we get a spec sheet?
I have used the filament in a 0.4 nozzle configuration and love the color change. Will I get the same effect with a 0.2 nozzle or is it too small for the application? I would like to know prior to changing the nozzle as it is an ordeal. Thank you in advance.
Is this filament abrasive on a brass nozzle?
Is this similar to a Silk PLA? If so, does it have the same layer adhesion issues?
Love the color! I was wondering if you have a color that is similar or the exact color of the raspberry?
What are the results when using a volcano hot end? It says it may reduce effect.. is it worth trying or will it just totally mix it?
Will this filament type every be available as TPU? THANKS!
1: Will this be available in refill packs? 2: Could something like this be made in ABS?
I would like to know where to find the file for the skull in the puddle!
Is It the same as Magic Silk PLA ?
I noticed you recommend smaller hot ends. Will this filament work on the ender3 v2 neo and/or the Flashforge Finder?
Good morning Is your Quantum Iridescent and silky PLA compatible with makerbot replicator+ printers? Thank you in advance. Savino Capizzi
What is the density of the filament in g/cm3?
Is this able to be used on a Makerbot Replicator+ with the experimental smart extruder?
What is the model used for the skull bottle and where can I find it?
Would like to see some sample or assortment packs, say, four 1/4kg rolls of different color combos.
Will this work with the Ultimaker s5?
What is the difference between the two sizes
Where I can find the file of the Star (with different infill patterns) you have pictured above? I just got my roll of blue/green quantum and I want to print cool things!
Can we get something like this in a TPU? Would love to print drone parts in a quantum color
Is there a way to influence the layout of the color change, or will it always tend to be in a left-right orientation? Can it be, for example, one color when you look at it from aboce and another from below?
It's the STL for the vase available?
do you have a filament profile?
For me, this worked in the generic PLA setting.
The green/blue stuff I've had nothing but problems with. 240C/60C bed, it would just randomly jam. Sometimes after the first layer, sometimes five hours into a print. It almost behaved like there was some kind of solid contaminant in the filament - I'd push a higher melting point filament through, I'd get a tiny pop and it would flow again until a random interval passed and it would jam up.
Ran through my filament dryer 5 times, 6 hours @65C.
Usings Prusa Mini, 225 first layer and 220 on worked for me
For me, using a Tungsten Steel Nozzle, I couldn't get a successful print using 210-220c. It would not lay correctly and fail (and yes, my bed was trammed, z-offset was correct, and my ABL was on).
I finally had to print at 35-40mm/sec, @ 230c, and the bed at 50c to get a successful print.
Same problems with the hardened steel nozzle. 215/60 on a Prusa MKS3+ didn't work. 2 failed prints in a row.
I've been having a lot of trouble trying to get it to print. I tried RLovrin1's suggestion, and it works perfectly. So if you have trouble, def try "35-40mm/sec, @ 230c, and the bed at 50c"
I have also been getting clogs and jams at the recommended parameters (227°/50°) with quick-to-somewhat-quick PLA printing speeds. Like the last person mentioned, when I pulled out the most recent clog, there appeared to be some sort of fibrous material sticking out from the part of the clog that conformed to the shape of the nozzle--almost like little micro-fibers. Maybe there is some sort of middle separation layer they are using to keep the two colors from mixing with one another when the filament is extruded on their machines? It will probably be necessary to use slower speeds, less retraction if possible, and maybe higher temps.
Super fillament! Respect
Supe'r fillament! Respect