eSUN eSUN Orange PLA+ Filament - 1.75mm (1kg)

I'm wondering the same thing about prolonged outdoor exposure.
(UV resistance, if any, and heat durability)

You should not cook or store food in anything 3D printed. Bacteria can become trapped and grow inside the small layers.

I'm using buildtak with Aqua Net hairspray with great success. Fan speeds are 100%. Nozzle temp 240c and bed at 65c. Print speed is 60mm/sec.

245/80°C, Fan off. Glass/hairspray or Garolite with no glue.

Base resin of Ryno is PETG, so it is hygroscopic, though not as bad as nylon. You might get away without drying a new roll, but 2 hours in the dryer at 150F is good standard practice. I feed my filament straight from the dryer and leave the dryer running for the duration of my print jobs, and I have no stringing issues to speak of.

For best results, petg should be dried at 60°C for 6-8 hours or longer. Print from a dry box to keep filament dry.

I don't know the compositional difference but, in terms of performance Ryno is much better with overhangs and bridging, has less stringing and leaves fewer burn blobs in the print

The Technical Data Sheet lists PETG as the raw material for Ryno filament

Pro Ryno is a Copolyester filament which has slightly higher heat resistant qualities. It is stronger than natural PETG. I find it easier to print with as well.

Heat Deflection Temperature/ ASTM D648 at 66 psi 71°C

If you need absolute rigidity at lower temperatures, then Ryno is a better choice. If strength is needed at elevated temperatures, then I would advise using Nylon X.

Following

Ryno can be printed with any nozzle, brass would be preferred due to better heat conductivity. If brass is used, 245°C nozzle temp is recommended. If a steel nozzle is used, 250°C. Bed temperature varies depending on conductivity. 75°C is great for buildtak, powder coated spring steel. 80°C for glass and Garolite.

PVA or hairspray is needed on glass as an interference layer. No glue is necessary on powder coated pei or Garolite.

Tough PLA is PLA + glass fiber infill, in other words, it is a composite PLA. It is recommended that you use a hardened steel, ruby or diamond tipped nozzle with Tough PLA.

It easier to print with Tough PLA due to it's lower melting temperature and it has a higher heat deflection temperature than Ryno.

It looks like a servo motor with a gear attached and a printed part attached to that, with what looks like a leveling sensor, so my best guess is that it is part of an extruder/hotend build.

It is the motor mount of the X-axis on the Pulse XE printer.

I think it depends on the amount of infill you use. At 20% infill I find it to be fairly clear with a light milky color. At 50% infill it appears to be almost white.

Since the base component is PETG, it is most likely very similar. Thus, it will crystalize (cloud) if the temperature is too high, or if it kept at temperature for too long. It needs to be constantly flowing to remain translucent.

As with most petg, 100% infill is required to maintain transparency.