MatterHackers White Green MatterHackers Quantum PLA Filament - 1.75mm (0.75kg)
LayerLock SLA Build Surface is a thin build surface with an adhesive backing that is engineered to take the guesswork out of getting printed parts to stick to the plate and minimizing warps. It is compatible with most photopolymer resin brands and types, and is designed to ensure that the print object will stick to the build surface throughout the entire print session.
- Adhesive backing guarantees bed adhesion throughout print
- Compatible with most photopolymer resins
- Minimizes warps for successful prints
| Price: | $42.00 (with add-ons) |
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| Availability: | In Stock |
| Order Now: | Ships Tomorrow Free U.S. Shipping |
For tips on installing this build sheet, check out the How to Succeed with LayerLock SLA Build Surface article.
Enhance your 3D printing experience with LayerLock SLA Resin 3D Printing Build Surface! This awesome build sheet is engineered to take the guesswork out of getting those printed parts to stick to the plate and minimizing warps. Compatible with most photopolymer resin brands and types such as MH Build Epoxy-Free Resin, this thin build surface with an adhesive backing guarantees the print object will stick to the build sheet throughout the entire print session. Invest in this reliable build surface for consistent bed adhesion. Note that LayerLock SLA sheets do not arrive pre-sanded. Please pre-sand the build surface before use.
SUCCESSFULLY PRODUCE RESIN PRINTED PARTS WITH LAYERLOCK SLA BUILD SURFACE
LayerLock SLA Build Surface is the ideal choice when 3D printing with photopolymer resins. Like FDM, SLA 3D printing is also susceptible to bed adhesion issues that may be caused by a variety of factors. With LayerLock, the amount of guesswork and hoops to jump through in resolving adhesion issues is drastically reduced thanks to LayerLock's formula and design. Tired of parts dropping into the vat or warping at the base due to lack of bed adhesion? LayerLock SLA Resin 3D Printing Build Surface is the solution for you.
SAVE MONEY AND MATERIAL WITH THIS RELIABLE PRINT SURFACE
More successful 3D printed parts equal less money and material loss from failed bed adhesion. LayerLock SLA Resin 3D Printing Build Surface was designed to ensure digital fabricators make the most out of their 3D printing experience by achieving a higher print success rate with every project. Like the rest of MatterHackers' LayerLock line, this SLA-specific build surface was engineered to deliver reliable bed adhesion to 3D printing. No more having to reprint the same part due to the model falling off the plate mid-print or the base warping on a part that must be flat, make the most out of your photopolymer material using LayerLock SLA Resin 3D Printing Build Surface.
THE BEST SOLUTION TO ACHIEVING BETTER BED ADHESION WITH AN EASY-TO-INSTALL BUILD SHEET
Getting parts to stick to your resin 3D printer's build platform is easier and better with LayerLock SLA Resin 3D Printing Build Surface. Simply remove the adhesive liner on the back of this LayerLock sheet, stick it onto the clean surface of the printer's build plate, and voila–the build platform now has minimal chances of prints failing due to incomplete bed adhesion. While there are other methods to achieving better bed adhesion, LayerLock is the best solution all around. Sanding the printer's build plate is a common option to improve adhesion and is super effective; however, there's a valid concern about potentially harming the build plate (and your printer's warranty) if sanding is done improperly. With LayerLock SLA Build Surface, there is zero concern about ruining the build plate as any needed sanding happens on the LayerLock sheet. This saves the resin printer's warranty and saves you from having to spend extra cash on a new build plate due to uneven and/or very frequent sanding. For the best and easiest solution to achieving strong bed adhesion, look no further than LayerLock SLA Resin 3D Printing Build Surface.
AVAILABLE LAYERLOCK SLA RESIN 3D PRINTING BUILD SURFACE SIZES
| Dimensions | New Spacer Needed? | Printer Compatibility |
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| 5.039" x 3.09" (128mm x 78.5mm) |
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| 7.598" x 4.76" (193mm x 121mm) |
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| 10.43" x 5.866" (265mm x 149mm) |
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| 13.149" x 7.559" (334mm x 192mm) |
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
- Pack of 1
- 1 x Thin Build Surface Sheet with an Adhesive Back
- Thickness: 0.035" (0.89 mm)
- 1 x Square of 220g sandpaper
- 1 x Thin Build Surface Sheet with an Adhesive Back
- Pack of 3
- 3 x Thin Build Surface Sheet with an Adhesive Back
- Each Sheet's Thickness: 0.035" (0.89 mm)
- 1 x Square of 220g sandpaper
- 3 x Thin Build Surface Sheet with an Adhesive Back
MATERIAL COMPATIBILITY
Compatible with most photopolymer resin brands and types such as MH Build Epoxy-Free Resin, Peopoly, Liqcreate, and more.
LAYERLOCK SLA BUILD SURFACE TIPS
- Using the correct resin profile settings and having a leveled Z height is still necessary for bed adhesion success. Make sure to calibrate your Z height after installing this surface on your machine.
- LayerLock SLA sheets do not arrive pre-sanded. Lightly scuff the build surface before first use with the 220g sandpaper that comes with this surface. Scuff again whenever you notice the adhesion has worn off. Scuffing the surface will most likely be necessary after every couple of Liters of resin used.
- Maximize the lifespan of your build surface with proper care/maintenance.
- Avoid jabbing sharp print removal tools into the build surface
- Prevent solvents like IPA from making contact with the adhesive that attaches the build surface to the build plate. This means soaking your build plate with the LayerLock SLA sheet attached for long periods of time is not recommended as it can reduce the longevity of that adhesive.
- Using IPA to wipe the surface of the LayerLock SLA sheet is fine.
INSTALLATION
Installation is simple and easy. Lightly scuff your build plate and lightly sand the LayerLock build sheet. Clean both your build plate and LayerLock sheet with isopropyl alcohol. Once the plate is dry, remove the adhesive liner on the back of the LayerLock build surface sheet, place the sheet (adhesive side facing up) on top of the LCD screen, home your Z, and that will stick it onto whatever build plate is installed on your specific printer.
- If you are attaching the sheet directly to the printer's build plate, no additional steps are needed as the standard recommendation of loosening the leveling screws before homing your Z height will suffice.
- If you are attaching the sheet onto a Wham Bam system, make sure you follow Wham Bam's instructions for installing a new spacer (if applicable to your machine) if you are installing both the Wham Bam system and LayerLock SLA sheet at the same time.
- If you already have the Wham Bam system and new spacer installed on your printer, no additional steps are needed as the standard recommendation of loosening the leveling screws before calibrating your Z height will suffice.
Once stuck to the build plate, re-level your surface based on your specific printer/setup with the newly installed LayerLock SLA Build Surface and the Z height is properly set. Whether it's the printer's build plate or a flexible build plate that's part of a magnetic bed system, this LayerLock SLA Resin 3D Printing Build Surface is compatible. Thanks to LayerLock SLA sheet's 0.8mm thin thickness, adjustments to your z-height will be minor. That's it! You're ready to print.
If removing LayerLock SLA Build Surface to install a new sheet, ensure to remove any leftover adhesive on the build plate before installing a new sheet.
Want step-by-step instructions on installation? Check out the 'How to Succeed with LayerLock SLA Build Surface' article here.
MAINTENANCE
If bed adhesion is lost, use the 220 grit sandpaper provided to lightly sand the build sheet. It is best to sand the entire surface evenly to avoid creating low spots. Avoid inhaling dust particles from sanding by wearing a respirator mask. Wipe the dust off the sheet before printing. If cleaning the build plate is needed (for example, when switching between formulas/colors), avoid bathing the sheet in solvents (such as isopropyl alcohol), if possible. Cleaning the LayerLock print surface with solvents via bathing in a container of that solution may shorten the lifespan of the build surface's adhesion to the build plate. Cleaning the surface with solvent using a paper towel of micro fiber cloth and a minimal amount of solvent is fine.
Questions
You mention and alignment coin, where can I find that?
How many meters of filament is in one roll?
the colors are beautiful. Can we buy in France? where can we find the stl of the mandala?
What does the empty spool weight?
What is the density of this material?
What are the material properties for this filament? Can we get a spec sheet?
I have used the filament in a 0.4 nozzle configuration and love the color change. Will I get the same effect with a 0.2 nozzle or is it too small for the application? I would like to know prior to changing the nozzle as it is an ordeal. Thank you in advance.
Is this filament abrasive on a brass nozzle?
Is this similar to a Silk PLA? If so, does it have the same layer adhesion issues?
Love the color! I was wondering if you have a color that is similar or the exact color of the raspberry?
What are the results when using a volcano hot end? It says it may reduce effect.. is it worth trying or will it just totally mix it?
Will this filament type every be available as TPU? THANKS!
1: Will this be available in refill packs? 2: Could something like this be made in ABS?
I would like to know where to find the file for the skull in the puddle!
Is It the same as Magic Silk PLA ?
I noticed you recommend smaller hot ends. Will this filament work on the ender3 v2 neo and/or the Flashforge Finder?
Good morning Is your Quantum Iridescent and silky PLA compatible with makerbot replicator+ printers? Thank you in advance. Savino Capizzi
What is the density of the filament in g/cm3?
Is this able to be used on a Makerbot Replicator+ with the experimental smart extruder?
What is the model used for the skull bottle and where can I find it?
Would like to see some sample or assortment packs, say, four 1/4kg rolls of different color combos.
Will this work with the Ultimaker s5?
What is the difference between the two sizes
Where I can find the file of the Star (with different infill patterns) you have pictured above? I just got my roll of blue/green quantum and I want to print cool things!
Can we get something like this in a TPU? Would love to print drone parts in a quantum color
Is there a way to influence the layout of the color change, or will it always tend to be in a left-right orientation? Can it be, for example, one color when you look at it from aboce and another from below?
It's the STL for the vase available?
do you have a filament profile?
For me, this worked in the generic PLA setting.
The green/blue stuff I've had nothing but problems with. 240C/60C bed, it would just randomly jam. Sometimes after the first layer, sometimes five hours into a print. It almost behaved like there was some kind of solid contaminant in the filament - I'd push a higher melting point filament through, I'd get a tiny pop and it would flow again until a random interval passed and it would jam up.
Ran through my filament dryer 5 times, 6 hours @65C.
Usings Prusa Mini, 225 first layer and 220 on worked for me
For me, using a Tungsten Steel Nozzle, I couldn't get a successful print using 210-220c. It would not lay correctly and fail (and yes, my bed was trammed, z-offset was correct, and my ABL was on).
I finally had to print at 35-40mm/sec, @ 230c, and the bed at 50c to get a successful print.
Same problems with the hardened steel nozzle. 215/60 on a Prusa MKS3+ didn't work. 2 failed prints in a row.
I've been having a lot of trouble trying to get it to print. I tried RLovrin1's suggestion, and it works perfectly. So if you have trouble, def try "35-40mm/sec, @ 230c, and the bed at 50c"
I have also been getting clogs and jams at the recommended parameters (227°/50°) with quick-to-somewhat-quick PLA printing speeds. Like the last person mentioned, when I pulled out the most recent clog, there appeared to be some sort of fibrous material sticking out from the part of the clog that conformed to the shape of the nozzle--almost like little micro-fibers. Maybe there is some sort of middle separation layer they are using to keep the two colors from mixing with one another when the filament is extruded on their machines? It will probably be necessary to use slower speeds, less retraction if possible, and maybe higher temps.
Super fillament! Respect
Supe'r fillament! Respect