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MakerGear MakerGear V4 Hot End - Stainless Steel - 0.35mm

The MakerGear M3 family of 3D printers are massively reliable machines that hold calibration and enable dependable, repeatable results. The stock machine comes assembled with a brass nozzle, perfect for PLA, ABS and more 3D printer filaments, but not recommended for abrasives like NylonX or Glow in the Dark materials. The stainless steel nozzle on this hotend enables the M3 to print abrasive filament like the champion printer it is.

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Product No. M-ARN-PXQ3

Upgrade your M2, M3, or M3 ID for abrasive filament today

The MakerGear M2, M3, or M3 Independent Dual Extruder 3D printer is built to take on the toughest job's you could throw at it. Capable of creating strong and beautiful parts, the stock machine leaves only one thing to be desired - printing with abrasive filament. Enter the stainless steel nozzle upgrade, a direct replacement for the standard brass nozzle that allows the user to create parts using abrasive filaments like NylonX, Glow in the Dark, or Carbon Fiber PLA. This package is a pre-assembled hotend, which can easily be swapped out to replace the stock unit.

The fully assembled M3 Stainless Steel hotend

Easy to install for a quick upgrade

This package includes the nozzle, heater block, heat break, heater cartridge, and thermistor, pre-assembled and ready for installation. Changing out the hotend is a simple process, here is the breakdown:

  1. Unload any filament from your M3
    1. Let the hotend cool before continuing
  2. Disconnect the white heater cartridge wire from the 'H' port on the toolhead
  3. Disconnect the black thermistor wire from the "TH' port on the toolhead
  4. Loosen the M2.5 set screw on the side of the toolhead
  5. The hotend is now disconnected from the toolhead. Double check that the hotend is cool enough to handle with your bear hands! Gently pull down on hotend assembly, twisting a little if necessary and the entire unit will slide out.
  6. Slide the new hotend in place
  7. Tighten the M2.5 set screw
  8. Reconnect the cables for the thermistor and heater cartridge
  9. Check everything is tight
  10. Reload filament

A view of the M3 toolhead, the hotend set screw mentioned in steps 4 and 7 is visible in the lower right.

A closeup of the 0.35mm Stainless Steel nozzle installed on this hotend

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Is there any info on Tg? Tensile strength? Modulus? etc...

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This is one of the strongest and highest temperature CarbonFiber Nylon filaments you can buy. It is made from Nylon 6 which is higher temperature than other carbon filaments that contain Nylon 12. If you are not familiar or comfortable with printing high temperature plastics, do not buy this. Buy the NylonX. Disregard the technical data sheet on this product, it is incorrect. This requires a heated chamber+50C and +295C hotend, +100C bed temperatures. It has very poor layer bonding and makes really rough exterior parts. The filament is extremely brittle and comes wet on the spool. I dehydrate the filament for 12-24 hours and then feed my extruder from a heated spool box at 56C. The filament is still brittle, even at this temperature, so watch to make sure it didn't just break off. - Michael Hathaway

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Is this the Gen 3 version?

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Can you print at 0.2mm? I see it says 0.4mm or greater. Hard to find nozzle for it.

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What are the spool dimensions

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how does this compare to nylonX?

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What are the settings in Prusa Control for 3DXTech CarbonX?

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