orbi-tech Polycarbonate (PC) Filament - 1.75mm (0.75kg)

We do not have this data.

Yes, this can be used to replace printed parts on a 3D printer.

That would be a good start. Additionally, the burn residue could indicate a potential obstruction in your filament path. I would give your hotend a good cleaning as well.

No.

The best would be the Intamsys FunmatHT however, you should be able to use a Lulzbot Taz6 with an enclosure as well.

PC has much higher strength and temperature resistance than PET-G. PC does require an all-metal hotend, heated bed, and enclosure to be able to print. It is much more difficult to print that PET-G.

Hi @Guest!

The stock hotend for your mk3 can reach max 300C with a heated bed temp of 120C.
Theoretically, you should be fine.

I have printed small parts with Polymaker PC-Max on my Mk3. Its sticks very hard to the PEI with UHU stick but I have been able to remove all the parts so far by soaking the build plate in warm soapy water afterwards to soften the UHU.

I don't think PC-Max is pure polycarbonate as it prints at 260-270C so this information may not help you

I am printing Carbon Filled PC on a Prusa MK3S. only two problems experienced or sometimes getting delamination off hte bed during a print, but also it sticking way too hard to a print and ripping the PEI sheet on the bed.

The best mix for me has been a print temp around 272C and an initial bed setting of 105, going up to 115C during the print. Make sure and let it cool to ambient after printing. If you try to take it off while hot right after printing, will probably mess the bed up.

I also added one of MH's tough nozzles and that has helped quite a bit with all CF blends I have used.

Hi John!

I do not, unfortunately, have that data for this filament.
I do, However, have the melt flow rate of our PLA:

Melt Flow Index (g/10min)
5(190°C/2.16kg)

Hi @Brandon!

I would definitely look into some kind of drying box or our PrintDry system which allows you to print as the filament is inside of the dryer.

I use a Polycarbonate(also known as lexan) sheet and it works great. be careful tho since it might bond if you don't use it well. i print at 85c -90 bed. but at those temps if you have a passive enlcosure it heats up slower. i also put a blanket over my printer as the enclosure

Polycarbonate is brittle below freezing, so I would choose a different material in lieu of desktop 3D printing thermoplastics.

You've linked to E3D's site and guide; we're not exactly sure whether they intended to denote notched or un-notched impact strength.

Akk. Sorry about that. Getting my PC suppliers confused. Main question for you would be: what is the notched izod impact strength of the MatterHackers PC? Do you have a datasheet. Obviously want to compare it to the E3D, etc, but they don't offer a datasheet. Both probably have notched impact performance higher than anything else on the market, by the way.

Apologies, we don't currently have that information. I've initiated the process for obtaining it from our manufacturers, if possible. Will follow up here if we are able to provide.

Polycarbonate's glass transition temperature is 147°C, so it will just begin to deform at 150.

You really want 300°C to be able to print PC. You can upgrade the hot end to be able to print at that temperature. We don't have an official solution to offer, but check out this Thingiverse forum post about installing an E3D v6 on a CR-10: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/creality-cr-10/topic:14655

We have had no experience printing Polycarbonate on the Ultimaker 3. Currently the AA print cores have been optimized for ABS, PLA, PET/CPE and Nylon. Future iterations will include Polycarbonate. I would not recommend that you use Polycarbonate on an Ultimaker 3. Otherwise, we have no support material filament designated for use with Polycarbonate.

PC prints well with ultimaker 3.

We are having good luck with HIPS support filament for Polymaker PC-MAX on a Raise3d N2 Plus.

65 C

Polycarbonate is tougher. Polycarbonate is used in bulletproof glass. No type of nylon would fare as well in that situation.

Fiber inlaid materials will always have a higher tensile strength, though. The tensile strength of polycarbonate is much less than that of aluminium.

No. Polycarbonate needs to be printed at 300 C. Neither of those printers are designed to do that.

Is this the Inventor Cloud printer you have?
http://www.inventorcloud.net/invent3d-printer-kit/

If so, then no, it is not compatible. You need a heated bed and a hot end that can print up to 300C in order to print PC.

The CubePro takes proprietary cartridges of filament. Unless you've hacked your machine to accept 3rd party filament, none of our filaments will work on that machine

Thank you. Correct, we do not have a heat bed and have not hacked our cube pro. Thank you for responding so fast.

Any printer with an all metal hotend will work. You can upgrade an existing printer with one of our E3D kits, otherwise I would recommend the Lulzbot TAZ or Mini, or the Kossel Pro.

Those are different questions.

PC is very hygroscopic, so it must be dried in an oven before printing for best results.

It won't, however, swell when submerged in water.

PC is tough to print with.

For bed adhesion, we recommend a very thick layer of ABS juice on a 110C heated bed.

Worked great. Thanks

I second a high temp (110-120) bed and ABS juice. Not even my PEI bed that everything except nylon sticks to was able to hold PC.

polycarbonate stuck well to borosilicate bed, heated to 100c, coated with "disappearing purple" elmer's washable gluestick
https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E522/dp/B00178KMUC

Printed raft ABS on bed ( 140°C)
On the raft PC ( 280°C), sticks perfect and NO wrapping.
Only the ABS is difficult to remove

BuildTak sheets work great - just don't print too close and fuse the print

A Rostock Max can print with this material if you upgrade it using the E3D HotEnd. For a Rostock Max you would want the 1.75mm E3D HotEnd with Bowden. That HotEnd is all metal and allows you to print with every type of filament.

I'm printing PC on my RoStock MAX V2 with dual E3D V6 nozzles AND thermocouples instead of thermistors. PEEK heatbreaks may be an issue at high temps, but so are stock thermistors! EPCOS 100k are only good to 250C or 300C depending on the model.