E3D E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit 3.00mm Bowden (24v)

The v6 HotEnd Full Kit 3.00mm Bowden from E3D has been redesigned for your convenience from the ground up! This new hot end contains the same signature high-temperature performance for high-temp printing, as well as increased functionality for printing soft and flexible filaments.

Our inventory of this kit has transitioned to the new cartridge-type format for temperature sensors. This kit contains the new thermistor cartridge and heater block.

List Price: $56.00
Price: $56.00
Price: $...
Availability: Only 3 left in stock.
Order Now: Ships Today MatterHackers Shipping Truck Free U.S. Shipping
Qty
Add to wishlist
Available Add-ons (2)
(Out of stock) Price: $21.00 View Addon »
(Out of stock) Price: $8.00 View Addon »
Show More Add-ons
Product No. M-UF7-67P7

The v6 HotEnd allows you to print a wide variety of materials, from soft and flexible to sturdy and strong. This is possible due to the PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) liner tube through the hotend that you can extend into your extruder - this gives the ability to add the confinement and constraint needed to make excellent quality prints with flexible filaments. This technology opens new doors for your 3D printing aspirations.

With High-Temperature Performance, you can print with high-temp materials like Polycarbonate and Nylon - this also eliminates HotEnd meltdown failures that are common with PTFE designs. Even though the v6 has a PTFE liner inside the hotend the liner is never subjected to high temperatures so there is no risk of damaging the liner through overheating. Basically, this design is really in-tune with all the elements, so your prints will come out crisp and accurate.

The v6 has cut back on a bunch of bulk. This clean-cut version's overall length is only 62mm, and there are significant reductions in the X/Y dimensions by using the new injection moulded fan duct.

Are you eager to start printing right away? Good. So are we - and that's why here at MatterHackers we praise the v6 HotEnd. No adhesives, Kapton tape, or soldering is needed to get started. The new v6 simply locks into place with a little screw, and the updated cartridge style thermistor makes installing the hotend (as well as removing) a quick and smooth process compared to earlier methods. The parts of the hotend just screw together, and the fan duct naturally clips in - this can be manipulated in different ways to suit your setup preference.

The v6 has kept its vivid thermal transition that promotes high-quality printing - this is a standard requirement with all E3D accessories and hotends. A sharp thermal break gives excellent control over material output, which provides more precise starts and stops during your extrusion. Essentially, as a printing aficionado, this means you will have a more authentic and keen print.

Everyone likes to have different options to fuel their creative fire. Well, another reason why the v6 HotEnd is at the head of its class is that it has multiple nozzle sizes to choose from, thus your printing dreams are limitless. The default nozzle is 0.4mm, which produces fantastic prints with a great level of speed, ease, and resolution. Collecting a plethora of nozzle sizes increases your ability to explore and experiment with different filaments and extrusion settings.

The printing options are endless with multiple nozzles!

Included:

  • 1 Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)
  • 1 Stainless Steel heat break
  • 1 Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)
  • 1 Aluminium Heater Block
  • 1 100K Semitec NTC thermistor (new cartridge-style)
  • 1 24v 30W Heater Cartridge
  • 1 24v 30x30x10mm fan
  • 4 Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct
  • 1 M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge
  • 1 Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)
  • 800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.
  • 1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of the tubing.
  • 1 Silicone Sock

You can find assembly instructions here.

Will the E3D hot end work with my printer/Which E3D kit do I need?
 
Yes, depending on how much work you are willing to do. The E3D is not a plug and play replacement for the original hot end on any printer we are aware of. The installation will require some modifications to your machine. We currently have installation guides for the following printers, and the correct E3D kit is listed next to it:
 
If your printer is not on the list, you should still look through the guides to get an idea of what is involved. Here are the general steps:
  1. Find a way to attach the hot end. This usually involves printing some kind of mounting piece.
  2. Modify your firmware configuration.
  3. Find a way to power the fan.
 
Here are some questions you should ask yourself when trying to determine if the E3D will work with your printer:
  • How does my hot end attach to the printer?
  • Can I modify my printer's firmware?
  • If you want to use the Chimera, Cyclops, or Kraken, you must also consider how many motor drivers, thermistor inputs, and heater outputs your controller board has.
 
Here are some questions you should ask when choosing which E3D hot end to buy:
  • Does my printer use 1.75 or 3 mm filament?
  • Does my printer run on 12 V or 24 V, or some crazy combination of the two (i.e. a 24 V PSU with the hot end throttled down to 12 V using PWM)?
  • Is my printer a direct drive or Bowden setup?

Questions View All Responses

The TDS says "Print Temp 230C +/-10" and "Bed Temp 70C +/-10". The images on this web page say "Hot End Temp 250C +/-10" and "Bed Temp 50C +/-10". Is this inconsistency a hallmark of the MH PRO series TPU???

Add Response

What is the difference between the MH PRO series TPU and the MH Build Series TPU?

Add Response

I have had generally good luck with this material. I love the properties of it. I would like some advice on reducing some stringing. I use Prusa MK3S with the Generic FLEX setting. I get a big string from the purge line to the skirt and from the skirt to the print. I am using a 240 degree print temp and my speeds are all around 30.

View 3 Responses

Is this designed to be printed in a machine with a bowden extruder?

View 2 Responses

I ordered this material (Matter Hackers Pro Series, 1.75mm, TPU, Gray) for my Bambu Lab X1E printer. When I tried to load it into the AMS, it failed and got stuck. I needed to disassemble the filament tubing to get it unstuck. Is there something that could be done to use this material with the Bambu Lab X1E printer? Perhaps mounting it to the rear spool instead if in the AMS...? Do you have any experience with this material for this printer? Thank you. Brian Wixom brianwixom@gmail.com

Add Response

I discovered that Metthackers pro clear TPU is easy to break, while the cheap inland white TPU is nearly impossible to break. So I don't get it, the NylonX is major strong and I use it as the backbone of everything, but I don't understand how a cheap filament, precisely inland white TPU, outperforms mettahackers pro series in utility function. It prints better, but I can make the cheap stuff print near perfect with extra attention to settings. So I ask, whats really up with mettahackers TPU, it concerns me because I was going to invest in Mettahackers Nylon and now I am in doubt. I simply want to know why the cheap stuff was way beter than mettahackers pro series?? Please.

View 1 Response

Can this be used as a base, with a layer change/stop and then PLA printed on top of it? I want a flexible bottom to a specific print, but I don't want the entire print flexible...

View 2 Responses

What's the shore hardness?

View 1 Response

What are temperature limits for printed parts?

Add Response

How well do TPU printed objects hold up against gasoline and oils? Thinking about making an intake boot? I'd like it to hold around 100 psi. any recommendations?

View 1 Response

What is the chemical resistance to water rating?

Add Response

What is the Light Transmittance Rating of this material? This is a commonly reported property, usually expressed as % of total light transmittance. 100% = perfect clarity, all light crosses through 0% = perfect opacity, no light crosses through.

View 1 Response

Where is the Safety Data Sheet?

Add Response

1.7mm as delivered, which made it very prone to kinking. Not printable with the EZR Struder on an Ender 3, with any temperature or nozzle. 1.8mm & above seems necessary with flexible filament. Thicker is better because it needs to transfer force to the nozzle. It might work with a dual drive direct extruder with real tight passages.

View 2 Responses

What is the Young's modulus of the material

View 2 Responses

What is the moisture level it ships with?

View 2 Responses

Ask a question about this product

Notify me when this item becomes available

Available Financing

Back to top